The Kanjuruhan Experience

Throughout my football loving life, I’ve never experienced supporting my beloved team away from home. After quite a long wait, I finally decided to attend Persija’s away match against Arema in Malang on June 30.

Actually I had the opportunities to watch Persija in Bandung during my college years there. But I was more concerned about my safety had I decided to come to Siliwangi or Si Jalak Harupat, considering Jakmania-Bobotoh/Viking rivalry. Security issue is one of my considerations beside fare and transportation on attending away match. That’s why I chose Arema and Malang to host my visit.

I took a train ride from Pasar Senen Station on June 28, destination: Malang Kota Baru station. I booked 2 economy class seats of Majapahit train for me and my ally Kiko for IDR 275.000 each. Considering the ticket price, the facilities inside the train were nice.

Inside Majapahit train

at Malang Kota Baru station

Upon arrival in Malang, our first objective was to secure the ticket for the game. Aremania is well-known for their fanaticism on supporting Arema at their home base, Kanjuruhan Stadium. In addition, meeting between Arema and Persija has always been a crowd attraction over the years, and I didn’t want to miss the opportunity.

We were uncertain on when and where we can buy the ticket. We asked around and found that there would be a ticket booth open at 10.00 that sell First Class and VIP tickets in a building just in front of Malang Kota Baru station. Because it was still 09.00, means we had an hour to kill. So, we decided to go for jersey hunt.

Ultras store at Jl. Trunojoyo

Arema’s official jersey store, Ultras, is only 5 minutes walk away from the station. It is located in Jl. Trunojoyo. Turned out, they also sell pre-sale ticket, but only for economy class ticket. Without any second thought, we bought 2 ticket vouchers for IDR 30.000 each.

The Braceleticket

The ticket is unique. Rather than conventional printed paper, Arema officials use a thin paper in a form of a bracelet as ticket. It’s commonly called “braceleticket” (tiket gelang). From what I’ve learned, the idea of the concept is to avoid fake tickets, also to easily distinguish genuine ticket holders (or in this case, ticket wearers) from shoo-in-ers (enter the stadium stand without ticket). In my opinion, it’s a brilliant breakthrough idea that would be good to be implemented by other Indonesian clubs as well.

Ultras T-shirt

Arema away & third colors

I also bought Arema’s jersey for IDR 225.000 (no name and number). Unlike any other Indonesian club’s jersey, before you buy Arema’s Ultras jersey in their official store, they will give and let you try a plain jersey first. If you’re positive to buy the jersey, the staff will attach the patches on the jersey using heat pressure machine. Patches are including Arema’s official sponsors and logo, also the ISL logo. If you want to have the current Arema player name and number printed on the back side, you have to pay additional IDR 50.000. You can also customize the name and the number of your preferences with an additional IDR 75.000. With good quality and service, those prices are worth it.

Patches are being placed on the shirt

Patches on the shirt are being heated with a heat pressure machine

Heated patches rubbed for final touch

The store isn’t big. Beside Arema’s original jersey, they sell other products full with Arema’s identity like t-shirts, sandals, jackets, etc. The staffs there were very nice. They provided us with any kind of information we need regarding the match. For instance, they said that even though the kick off is at 19.00, the gate will be closed at 17.00. So, they suggested us to come earlier to the stadium.

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On the match day, we exchanged the vouchers with tickets. As middle-class-supporters, we used public transportation to reach the stadium, which is located in Malang Regency, just outside the city. We took an angkot to Gadang terminal. Whichever angkot with an initial G on its front side, it will take you to Gadang. That’s how the angkot system works in Malang.

From Gadang, we had to continue our trip to Kepanjen. There is no angkot route to Kepanjen, so we took one to Blitar and got off at Kepanjen. Again, there is no angkot from Kepanjen to Kanjuruhan stadium. The options were to walk, take ojek, or hitch hike other supporters going to Kanjuruhan. We decided to walk the 2 kilometers distance.

Official angkot fee in Malang, same price over distances, distinguished only for public and student

Along the road, there were ticket scalpers and scarf sellers. Frequently, a convoy of motorcycle passed the road towards the stadium. There were also pick-up cars filled with Arema supporters bringing percussions singing Arema’s chants. From the way they looked, the supporters were not only going with friends. Some of them even brought their family, with their spouses and children.

Ticket scalpers, classic

Some motorcycle convoy

As we got to the road leading towards the stadium, there were a lot of local people offering spaces of their belongings for parking, especially for motorcycle parking. I found it quite interesting that a single football match can ignite local (or precisely, domiciliary) economy.

Local people offering parking spaces

Motorcycle parking

Kanjuruhan Stadium

Energy drink, courtesy of the sponsor

We arrived at the stadium at 14.50, and entered the stand at 15.00. At the gate, the committee gave us 2 funny-packed energy drinks (from one of their sponsors, of course). It’s a good thing that they were concerned about the supporters’ stamina on giving their support.

 
It was still 4 hours before kickoff, but the stadium was already packed! Approximately over 30,000 people were there before us. It created such a festive atmosphere inside the stadium hours before the match should even be started.

Inside Kanjuruhan, 4 hours before kickoff

Refreshments on the stands

Persija supporter, surrounded by Aremania

East stand, Yuli Soempil's stage

Curva sud, 2 hours before kickoff

The visiting JakManias were allocated on the right side of the VIP tribune. It was quite unfortunate for me that I was on the opposite stand from Persija fans. Nevertheless, I didn’t feel worry about my safety because there was no harm done to me or Kiko even if the people on our surroundings were Arema fans, and yet they knew that we are not from Malang nor Aremania. For me, it showed Malang people’s hospitality and the good relationship between JakMania and Aremania.

Before the warming up session began at around 18.15, the supporter’s representatives displayed a large Arema banner on the field. A while later, Arema players entered the field and greeted the supporters. The fans started singing, chanting, and waving flags while they were warming up. I saw Aremania’s conductor, Yuli Soempil at his platform leading a stand full with Aremania on songs and choreography.

Before warming up session

After the players finished warming up and went back to the dressing room, the stadium was almost at its full capacity. For the last 3,5 hours, I had been seating on the same position. It was quite painful, though, since we couldn’t go anywhere. Because if we did, our seats would most likely have been taken over by other people. But as the FIFA Anthem went on, we forgot about the pain and everybody started to get on their feet.

The match started with an upbeat pace. Arema had more ball possession while Persija put more focus on defense. Right at the 13^th minute, Arema took the lead when Cristian Gonzales turned Sukadana’s reckless long range effort to the net just inside Persija’s goal box. The fans went festive celebrating the goal. They waved their flags and scarves as they were singing and jumping.

Pyro from Aremania after Arema's first goal

Not even 3 minutes later, Beto Goncalves scored Arema’s second goal. He dummied Ismed Sofyan and placed a stinging ground shoot across towards Adritany’s bottom left corner. Arema 2-0 Persija, and the crowd became more alive with that scoreline. As the 1^st half went by, the scoreline stood still.

At the half time break, I saw Arema supporters opened their rice packets (nasi bungkus) complete with side dishes of tempe, some chicken, vegetables, and crackers (kerupuk) and started having dinner at the stand. It seemed like they have prepared the meal before they go to the stadium. I found it unique because in Jakarta, at the half time break, most of the attending supporters usually only have light snacks not an actual meal. I also found it quite troublesome because it’s hard to eat with low lighting without table and cutlery while being on a stand! But regardless the inconvenience, I could say that they’re enjoying their meal.

Half time meal: nasi bungkus!

As the second half began, Persija went all out attack to score and equalize. Their offensive play created some chances but without positive result. Worse, Beto netted another goal to make it 3-0 at 66^th minute.

That goal brought Aremania again jumping and singing. But now, as they were so sure Arema would win the match, they started to blast red flares and fireworks. At some part of the stadium, red lights illuminated the stands along with hazardous smoke moving towards the field. The referee had to stop the match for more than 20 minutes for the smoke to stop invading the field and endangering the players’ lungs.

Smoke from flares invading the field

Match stopped to wait for the smoke to diminish

After the smoke went out, the match restarted. Arema seemed comfortable with the score line and thought of just keeping it until the end. But at the 83^rd minute, Emmanuel Kenmogne finally scored for Persija and reduce Arema’s trail to only 2 goals. However, for the remainder of the match, Persija failed to add more goals and the game ended 3-1 for the home team. As the final whistle blew, happy yet exhausted Arema fans applauded to the players on the field before starting to move towards the exit gate.

Me and Kiko after the match

A couple of minutes later, the committee turned off the floodlights. We took a couple of photos before leaving. Outside the stadium, thousands of people occupied the road. At first, we were worried about our commute back to our lodging because it was too crowded and we knew that we had to walk 2 kilometers to Kepanjen before continuing to Gadang and then to Lowok Waru, where we stayed. Fortunately, just outside Kanjuruhan entrance gate, we found an angkot with initial A, which means that angkot is heading to Argosari through Lowok Waru. Without further ado, we took that angkot.

Outside Kanjuruhan after the match

It was an exciting experience for me and my friend. Regardless the pain caused by sitting at the exact same place for almost 7 hours, and also the fact that Persija lost the match, I enjoyed the atmosphere, the new experience and the fun moment in Kanjuruhan. Also, even if it was only for 3 days, I enjoyed my stay in Malang.

Thank you Malang. Thank you Arema.

Pramuaji "Ajay"


My Malang Trip photos on my Facebook:
Malang Trip: The City and the Travelling 
Malang Trip: The Kanjuruhan Experience